[tunerlover3]

Can NOT be the torque converter.

First only the torque converter clutch would make the car stall when braking.

His car just dies while driving. Not during braking or accel.

[ghettoandy101]

i say torque convertor...so long as he accurately checked all the things that supposedly were checked...the convertor is what i would look into...but thats just meeeee haha but yeah...

[me6894]

ghettoandy101, on Oct 3 2009, 08:24 PM, said:

i say torque convertor...so long as he accurately checked all the things that supposedly were checked...the convertor is what i would look into...but thats just meeeee haha but yeah...

No really, it's not the torque converter.

[tunerlover3]

Like I said already, a torque converter wont kill a car while driving.

[alex]

Did we find out what this was yet?

[tunerlover3]

torque converter!!!!

[me6894]

tunerlover3, on Oct 6 2009, 11:07 PM, said:

torque converter!!!!

lol

[Cully77]

I'm not sure what's going on here, but I like it!

[tunerlover3]

Basically Scott,

This person has a problem where the car randomly shuts off while driving.

A person on here thinks its the torque converter........

[Brendensmonte]

Its a completly different car but MY friend had a similar problem in his 05 equinox it has the 3.4l in it turns out when he was changing spark plugs he hit his PCV Valve causing weird RPM drops and and stalling sometimes. It only did that because too much air was getting in did you check all intake gaskets to see if there was a leak. It seems unlikely but it may help to check.

Also my Monte carlo had the chip inside the key fail so a repair shop put in a resistor so the car would start sometimes it gets all fritzy and the car will stall right after you start it and wont restart after 10 mins. another thing worth looking into if you car uses the chip in the key to start.

[Damien]

NEW UPDATE 10/8/09

OKAY SO FINALLY MY CAR IS NOW GIVING ME A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!
YESSSSS!!
I never thought I would be so happy about actually getting a check engine light.

Okay, so I just got back from Autozone and had them give me the code. Its a P0440 code. He said something like a bad EVAP vacuum or something like that. He said most of the time its as simple as someone not having a seal on their gas cap, or filling up their car with gas will its still running. I then told him that my car had been dieing on me for 3 months now and all about my problems. He then told me about a similar issue he has with his Camero and that he had a small hole in his fuel line that was sucking air into it. He had to have someone drain the fuel lines and run smoke through them in order to detect it. And that this P0440 code could be attributed to that.

So lets assume for a minute he is correct. Would a small hole in my fuel line cause my car to die like it does?? Also lets assume its not my damn gas cap, i think if it was, my check engine light would have come on loooong ago. I also never ever fill up my car with gas when its running, so its not that either. But any other idea's?? I'm thinking of taking the car in tomorrow to the dealership again, but your input might help me tell these guys what specifically to look for.

And I really do appreciate all the great feedback so far, keep it coming!!

P.S. I tried my other brand new set of keys, and the car still died on me, so its not my car key computer chip.

[me6894]

The only way a 440 code will affect drivability is if the purge valve is inducing fuel vapors into the motor when it shouldn't be. Even then it would stumble a bit before it died. You could try a new purge valve, but I doubt the 440 code is related to your issue.

[Damien]

Well it sort of would make sense logically to me. A lot of times when my car dies, its because I am at a stop sign and I take my foot off the brake and hit the gas pedal. As soon as I hit that gas pedal my car dies on me. What if instead of getting fuel when i hit the gas pedal, my car is sucking in air instead, wouldnt this cause my car to die?? Does anyone know if this would indeed cause my car to die??

I cannot think of any other reason why this check engine light would just suddenly come on, other then being related to my ongoing problem. The check engine light did not come on while I was driving. It simply was there yesterday when I turned my car on. Additionally I have not filled up with fuel for a while, so it should not be related to the gas cap etc, cause if it was, my check engine light should have turned on shortly after filling up. So that leads me to believe that this P0440 code is indeed someway related to my car dieing on me. I cannot be 100% sure, but I drive the car on a regular basis and know all the variables, and in my opinion I would say its a safe assumption this code has something to do with it.

Also, can the purge valve get stuck open? Causing the car to die? Let me know what you guys think.

[tunerlover3]

Most emission codes dont cause the car to die.

Now a purge valve solenoid could open up at idle and cause a excess amount of fuel to enter causing it too stall, but you dont see that a lot.

Pretty sure something else is wrong.

What did the dealer say?

[alex]

This code is new issue maybe you knocked something loose when you were checking. Your original issue symptoms do not support this code having anything to do with them.
Did you get work/testing done for the crank sensor?

[Brendensmonte]

Know what... its the torque converter lol

[alex]

you keep saying that but I havent heard a related symptom to agree with it
please explain.
other wize I could say it's the thinymaboob ya that's it..
just kidden

[me6894]

The only way to know if the 440 code is related is to get a scan tool and have it smoke tested. If you smoke test it and see no smoke, check the FTP sensor and make sure its actually sealing. If it's not actually sealing then take the line off the induction side of the purge valve and if smoke is coming out then bam there's your problem.

But I highly highly doubt this is the case. 440 code isn't just related to the gas cap. You could have a leaking vent valve, evap line, charcoal canister, filler neck, the list goes on. Especially if you've been having this stalling problem for a month without an engine light.

[Damien]

Thanks for all the replies.

No I have not brought the car back in to the dealership yet. I'm sick of bringing it in there, just to have to go back and pick my car back up again with the same problem. I need my car for another week, before I can let them screw around with it again. I would like something more to go on before bringing it in there. I was hopeing this engine code would be it. Now it sounds like the engine code is very possibly a whole nother problem. GREAAAAT! I think I might know what's wrong with it. Maybe it just needs to be driven into a brick wall, so I can collect the insurance money. Problem solved!!

Seriously though, maybe its just my imagination, but I really seem to be going through my fuel very quickly. I have to fill up my car with gas tonight, and I'm going to set the odometer, in order to check on my fuel consumption. Other then that and the inconsistent dieing, I don't notice anything else wrong with the car. I will keep you updated.

I'm begining to wonder if its not my torque converter... LOL

[alex]

So here is where we are at and until we solve one issue it going to hard to go further on other issues.
As to why you fuel usage is higher. It doesn’t surprise me since a crank sensor controls spark it could very well be the timing is out add to this the code which means a Vacume issue of some sort could also cause poor fuel mileage.
See if one of the guys here whom may be close to you can come by and throw it on a scan tool.
It may cost you a beer or two after all the driving is done but well worth the cost.
But depending on how long it takes to fix it there could be other issues that come up. But let's deal with them one at a time
Working on the more important ones first car shutting down is very important.
For the other start checking vacume lines check plastic fittings they connect to.

OH ya might just as well change out your TC and thingymabob as well
rotfl..

[christophero1973]

Has the IAC (Idle Air Control valve)been replaced yet?. It's only 5 min job.

[Damien]

NEW UPDATE!!

Okay so I have not had the car die on me since November of 2009. It just died on me twice today (3/11/10). I can now say with absolute certainty that the weather/humidity DOES have something to do with why my car is dieing on me. Here is why: I live in Minnesota and since late November the temperature has been below freezing, until this week (the air also becomes very dry during the winter). This week the temperature has warmed up and it is now in the mid 40's, additionally it has been raining for the last 2 days, and today we had some heavy downpours (so the humidity is very high). I noticed a trend before when my car would die on me, that it always seemed to die on hot days (which are always humid in Minnesota) and days when it was raining.

So whatever is causing my car to die can somehow read the Temperature / Humidity in the air. What in my car can read the temp/humidity and cause my car to die?? Also would it be a fair assumption to say that it was the humidity in the air causing it to die and not a high temperature? Cause I mean today its only 45 degrees out. Additionally, would it also be a fair assumption to say that it is not a loose cable? Because if I had a loose cable, my car would have continued to die on me throughout the winter right?

I seriously need some help guys, I have a lot of driving to do this spring / summer for work, and I cannot have this problem. You guys have been great so far. To answer the previous person's question: No I have not replaces my I.A.C., the dealership seemed to think this was not the cause when I brought it up to them last.

[RedZed]

Damien, on 11 March 2010 - 08:34 PM, said:

NEW UPDATE!!

Okay so I have not had the car die on me since November of 2009. It just died on me twice today (3/11/10). I can now say with absolute certainty that the weather/humidity DOES have something to do with why my car is dieing on me. Here is why: I live in Minnesota and since late November the temperature has been below freezing, until this week (the air also becomes very dry during the winter). This week the temperature has warmed up and it is now in the mid 40's, additionally it has been raining for the last 2 days, and today we had some heavy downpours (so the humidity is very high). I noticed a trend before when my car would die on me, that it always seemed to die on hot days (which are always humid in Minnesota) and days when it was raining.

So whatever is causing my car to die can somehow read the Temperature / Humidity in the air. What in my car can read the temp/humidity and cause my car to die?? Also would it be a fair assumption to say that it was the humidity in the air causing it to die and not a high temperature? Cause I mean today its only 45 degrees out. Additionally, would it also be a fair assumption to say that it is not a loose cable? Because if I had a loose cable, my car would have continued to die on me throughout the winter right?

I seriously need some help guys, I have a lot of driving to do this spring / summer for work, and I cannot have this problem. You guys have been great so far. To answer the previous person's question: No I have not replaces my I.A.C., the dealership seemed to think this was not the cause when I brought it up to them last.

You too eh!
Just been reading through all of this and was thinking it sounds exactly like what my 1999 Monte Z34 3800 is doing but was going to say it only happens when the engine gets hot(warm weather), but I see you have come to realize yours is doing the same. I drive it all winter 2-3 years now and don't have any problem untill it gets warm outside.
Seems like mine is some kind of heat issue as i can combat it by running my heat in the summer(LOL...) removing hood insulation, and avoid any driving that would not let a steady stream of airflow into the front end. Done the fuel filter, MAF, IAC and CPK still letting me down in hot weather.
I feel your pain!

[blazerman3]

This is reaching so let me try to explain...cold air is dense,hot air is not. Because cold air is dense this tends to cause a leaner fuel/air mixture. More air and less fuel. Hot air is less dense so the fuel/air ratio is towards the rich side. Less air and more fuel. Add barometric pressure to this. The higher the barometric pressure the denser the air becomes. Opposite for lower baro pressure. So,with very cold air and a high barometric pressure this would cause a lean fuel/air mixture. Opposite for hot/low barometric pressure. Now with our cars the computer should be able to compensate for these variations through all it`s sensors. Try looking at those and testing them. Also make sure you have a good ignition system. Don`t rely on the check engine light. Scan the system and investigate anything that flags. I hope this helps ....

[Damien]

Okay, so as this problem seems to get worse and worse, during the last 2 weeks I have noticed another definitive problem. It's something I noticed once or twice last year, but could never be sure until the last 2 weeks when it has happened 3 more times now.

So here is what's happening: When I am on the freeway accelerating my car will hit 55MPH, and I will all of a sudden notice that the car will drop into some sort of "limbo" mode. I will not be able to accelerate anymore, however, all the power will still be on. I still have lights and power steering and the engine is still on, but if i hit the gas pedal, it just rev's the engine without accelerating.

So when this has happens, i will get in the right lane right away to pull over and when I start slowing down in the shoulder lane, my car will then completey die on me at that point. However, 2 times now I have tried something else. Both of the last two times when my car has entered "limbo" mode, instead of pulling over, i started to rev the engine a bunch of times, and all of a sudden the car will jump back into gear, and I will have acceleration again. Additionally I do notice when the car automatically shifts into the next gear (at any gear), it seems like it will shift rough / lag for a second, sometimes I will actually notice the car will shudder for a split second.

I don't know what this could be? Some sort of transmission issue? Alternator? Maybe this really could be my torque converter? Anyone have any idea's??

This post has been edited by Damien: 02 April 2010 - 09:34 AM

[Z34Coop]

Damien, on 02 April 2010 - 09:22 AM, said:

Okay, so as this problem seems to get worse and worse, during the last 2 weeks I have noticed another definitive problem. It's something I noticed once or twice last year, but could never be sure until the last 2 weeks when it has happened 3 more times now.

So here is what's happening: When I am on the freeway accelerating my car will hit 55MPH, and I will all of a sudden notice that the car will drop into some sort of "limbo" mode. I will not be able to accelerate anymore, however, all the power will still be on. I still have lights and power steering and the engine is still on, but if i hit the gas pedal, it just rev's the engine without accelerating.

So when this has happens, i will get in the right lane right away to pull over and when I start slowing down in the shoulder lane, my car will then completey die on me at that point. However, 2 times now I have tried something else. Both of the last two times when my car has entered "limbo" mode, instead of pulling over, i started to rev the engine a bunch of times, and all of a sudden the car will jump back into gear, and I will have acceleration again. Additionally I do notice when the car automatically shifts into the next gear (at any gear), it seems like it will shift rough / lag for a second, sometimes I will actually notice the car will shudder for a split second.

I don't know what this could be? Some sort of transmission issue? Alternator? Maybe this really could be my torque converter? Anyone have any idea's??

Theres a lot of people sayin itsthe converter, I'd say go to a junkyard and get a cheap one to see if it works, if so buy a good one

[Damien]

I wish I could just go out and buy a cheap converter and see if it works. I dont know squat when it comes to working on engines. I can identify the parts and go and buy them, but thats as far as my skill goes. I also dont have a house or good tools, so it makes working on a car basically impossible for me.

Any idea how much a converter costs? Used or new?