[Canecutter]

I need some help on replacing the O ring seal.
This is located in the valley of the engine block.
I can see an oil puddle around the seal / clamp bolt.
Do I need to remove the head to fix this? Not too sure if there wil be enough clearance after I remove the intake runners and plenum.
1996 z34 engine.
Thanks.

[Z34_B]

Canecutter, on Oct 9 2009, 07:14 PM, said:

I need some help on replacing the O ring seal.
This is located in the valley of the engine block.
I can see an oil puddle around the seal / clamp bolt.
Do I need to remove the head to fix this? Not too sure if there wil be enough clearance after I remove the intake runners and plenum.
1996 z34 engine.
Thanks.

Dig around a bit on the site for some help. No you don't need to remove the head, I used a dremel to carve away at the head. You can then take the oring and stretch it over the shaft into the groove, just cut the old one off. Best of luck, -B

[Canecutter]

Z34_B, on Oct 10 2009, 08:30 PM, said:

Canecutter, on Oct 9 2009, 07:14 PM, said:

I need some help on replacing the O ring seal.
This is located in the valley of the engine block.
I can see an oil puddle around the seal / clamp bolt.
Do I need to remove the head to fix this? Not too sure if there wil be enough clearance after I remove the intake runners and plenum.
1996 z34 engine.
Thanks.

Dig around a bit on the site for some help. No you don't need to remove the head, I used a dremel to carve away at the head. You can then take the oring and stretch it over the shaft into the groove, just cut the old one off. Best of luck, -B

Thanks for you help.
I was able to cut a notch on the pump drive seal cap; deep enouh to the top of the freeze plug.
Slipped on a new ring and rtv sealer hopefully this should work.
This is a great site and a lot of useful information here.
Appreciate the help.

[1996A-Z34]

Actually it would be smart to take off the head, rather than dremel it. It will give you a chance while you're down there to replace your head gaskets, and cam carrier gaskets as well. Just preventative maintence

[DigitallyPhoenix]

lol so rebuild the top half of this engine because u have a leak that can be fixed without all that work... keep in mind pulling the head involves doing the timing belt which is a few hundred for just parts then throw in the cost of head gaskets and thus is a bit pricy....dont u think?

1996A-Z34, on Nov 7 2009, 11:01 AM, said:

Actually it would be smart to take off the head, rather than dremel it. It will give you a chance while you're down there to replace your head gaskets, and cam carrier gaskets as well. Just preventative maintence

[1996A-Z34]

DigitallyPhoenix, on Nov 7 2009, 02:30 PM, said:

lol so rebuild the top half of this engine because u have a leak that can be fixed without all that work... keep in mind pulling the head involves doing the timing belt which is a few hundred for just parts then throw in the cost of head gaskets and thus is a bit pricy....dont u think?

1996A-Z34, on Nov 7 2009, 11:01 AM, said:

Actually it would be smart to take off the head, rather than dremel it. It will give you a chance while you're down there to replace your head gaskets, and cam carrier gaskets as well. Just preventative maintence

I did all of it for under $190 so I don't think that is a bad thing to do, you might as well if you're down there. I don't see why everyone puts up the questiion "WHY?" everytime something logical is suggested but when you talk about buying something irrelavant like a spoiler, or set of 22"s everyone just rolls with it, hmmmmm

mine also has 178K mile on her and it is driven hard and was from the autocross track Forgot

[mrl390]

Why spend 200 bucks extra replacing your timing belt prematurely just to fix a leaky oil drive O ring when you can wait and fix the o ring correctly when it actually comes time to replace your timing belt? Thats just how my logic works. Yeah if your T belt or head gaskets could use replacing, then you should just tear into the top end and do it correctly, but if your T belt and gaskets are fine, why waste the effort?

[Canecutter]

Leak was fixed and car runs good.
Replaced the lower intake gaskets ...those really needed to be changed.
While I had everything out I also took the oportunity to replace the drier, the orifice valve and compressor for the AC as the compressor seal was shot.
I agree with some of the previous posts....if something works well dont mess with it unless you have to.
I did dot dremel off piece of the head I cut a notch into the pump drive seal cover and this gave enough clearance to slip the new seal on.
Will flush the radiator this weekend ......thinking about adding some bars leaks to seal and condition the cooling system.
Anyone ever used this product?

[cak387]

Canecutter, on Nov 18 2009, 10:31 AM, said:

Leak was fixed and car runs good.
Replaced the lower intake gaskets ...those really needed to be changed.
While I had everything out I also took the oportunity to replace the drier, the orifice valve and compressor for the AC as the compressor seal was shot.
I agree with some of the previous posts....if something works well dont mess with it unless you have to.
I did dot dremel off piece of the head I cut a notch into the pump drive seal cover and this gave enough clearance to slip the new seal on.
Will flush the radiator this weekend ......thinking about adding some bars leaks to seal and condition the cooling system.
Anyone ever used this product?

Do not use bars leak. I think the majority of people on here will agree and say that if it is going to stop the radiator from leaking, it is also going to do the same inside the engine on critical pathways.

[mitch_09]

cak387, on Nov 18 2009, 12:01 PM, said:

Do not use bars leak. I think the majority of people on here will agree and say that if it is going to stop the radiator from leaking, it is also going to do the same inside the engine on critical pathways.

x2. i was convinced into using this a while ago and...just don't

[MonteMonster95]

Canecutter, on 18 November 2009 - 10:31 AM, said:

Leak was fixed and car runs good.
Replaced the lower intake gaskets ...those really needed to be changed.
While I had everything out I also took the oportunity to replace the drier, the orifice valve and compressor for the AC as the compressor seal was shot.
I agree with some of the previous posts....if something works well dont mess with it unless you have to.
I did dot dremel off piece of the head I cut a notch into the pump drive seal cover and this gave enough clearance to slip the new seal on.
Will flush the radiator this weekend ......thinking about adding some bars leaks to seal and condition the cooling system.
Anyone ever used this product?

NEVER, EVER, EVER use that crap in your cooling system. You WILL regret it. Gums the whole thing up.