Amp Goes Into Protect never used to
#1
Posted 10 February 2010 - 11:36 AM

- Behind headlight CAI - Nightshade Tails - 15" Kicker L7 - 1500W Digital Audio Amp - Side moldings removed -
#2
Posted 10 February 2010 - 12:30 PM
Edit- what did you all mess with when you were tryin to fix your other power issue you just had problems with? Check the terminal on that fuse box again, your battery, and any other electrical terminals for corrosion. Give them a quck scrub with a wire brush to be sure and make sure they're all tight. Especially the positive battery terminal, I'm hoping that's where you have the amp power wire hooked up to
This post has been edited by Nick07: 10 February 2010 - 12:37 PM
#3
Posted 10 February 2010 - 12:49 PM
Top Swap, Gen V 3.8", N* TB, XS Power Headers, ZZP Wires, AL 103s, 180* T-stat, Poly Upper Mounts
#4
Posted 10 February 2010 - 08:21 PM
PS3 Gamertag: BiggLDogg add me if you have a PS3
#5
Posted 11 February 2010 - 11:48 AM

#6
Posted 18 February 2010 - 12:12 AM
Nick07, on 10 February 2010 - 12:30 PM, said:
Edit- what did you all mess with when you were tryin to fix your other power issue you just had problems with? Check the terminal on that fuse box again, your battery, and any other electrical terminals for corrosion. Give them a quck scrub with a wire brush to be sure and make sure they're all tight. Especially the positive battery terminal, I'm hoping that's where you have the amp power wire hooked up to
i thought it might be a broken solder that would have been my next step because yes, i live in michigan and im always bumpin hard. the amp is fan cooled and has a heat-sink and does not get that hot to the touch even in the summer, and its a $600 amp so i think the solders should be pretty good (though you would think they would be good in your $300 xbox 360 but we all know how that turned out *cough cough RRoD*) lol. and yeah the sub is fine, i checked it out.
DBL: thanks for the input, uve been helpful with system issues in the past, but you were actually dead wrong this time. It was the connection to my fuse holder from the battery. on the battery side of the fuse there were a few stray wires that were barely touching the brass connector and causing mini power surges, but because my fuse is so large (100A) it wasent blowing the fuse, but the unstable power supply was causing the amp to go into protect. so yes it was an issue with one of the main wires... I think i need a new fuse holder mine is trash its some crappy schoche brand from meijer or something like that and the brass clamps on it are all warped out, but i got it working for now so...

- Behind headlight CAI - Nightshade Tails - 15" Kicker L7 - 1500W Digital Audio Amp - Side moldings removed -
#7
Posted 18 February 2010 - 01:15 AM
Top Swap, Gen V 3.8", N* TB, XS Power Headers, ZZP Wires, AL 103s, 180* T-stat, Poly Upper Mounts
#8
Posted 26 April 2010 - 08:06 PM
Dbl_D718, on 18 February 2010 - 07:15 AM, said:
Ive only gone into "protection" mode when im running the amp hard with to low of a OHM load... use a meter and see what the ohms on the sub is... if the Voice coil is bad could cause to low of resitance tripping the amp to protect mode... I had a MTX100D amp go bad.. sent it to MTX and had it referbished, it was CHEAP and has bascly all new guts and works like a charm... Im sure JL would be able to do the same thing... I want to say it was like $75 inc. shipping when MTX referbed my amp... (new power supply and circut board in my old case... so yeah its basicly brand new).
S
#9
Posted 28 May 2010 - 10:50 PM
Rochford77, on 10 February 2010 - 12:36 PM, said:
It's one of two things a blown sub (which can be tested with volt/ohm meter) or your amp could have gone bad most likely you have a blown sub since that's what protect mode if for. It helps the amp by turning off so the excess power that's coming back from the blown speaker doesn't "fry" the amp in layman's terms.
This post has been edited by Jared: 28 May 2010 - 10:55 PM

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