[mrclean]

I know theres has been countless threads about this, but would it be bad to use my existing amp wiring to relocate my battery? essecentialy, connect the wire to the posivitve wire under the hood, ground the ground wire to what ever it will reach, then in the trunk, attatch the battery with the wire that went to the amp. and ground it to the strut tower?

then for the amp, id just run a wire from the batt to the amp.

[Devin]

id say it would be perfectly fine as long as the wire is big enough, and fuse it good

[blazerman3]

I`m thinking you might fry the amp... I`d want to go with a larger gauge wire to run from the eng. compt. to the trunk. Ground straight to the frame instead of the strut. Straight shot. Then tie the amp to it in the trunk.

[zipper778]

Just remember that if you relocate your battery and plan on racing at the drag strip you will need an electrical cutoff switch on the back of your car.

http://www.nhraonlin...s/tech_faq.html

[famousmonte98]

zipper778, on 26 February 2010 - 09:06 PM, said:

Just remember that if you relocate your battery and plan on racing at the drag strip you will need an electrical cutoff switch on the back of your car.

http://www.nhraonlin...s/tech_faq.html

I dont know if it is at every track. I know it was okay for me to not have one.

And i dont see why the existing wire wouldn't do just fine what gauge is it? My relocation deal only has I think 4 gauge its not very big.

This post has been edited by famousmonte98: 01 March 2010 - 01:56 AM

[mrclean]

ya i thik the wire was 4 gauge with a 100 amp fuse

[Devin]

might wanna get some kind of circut breaker instead, or keep a few spare fuses with you, it would suck to get stranded with no batery power

This post has been edited by Devin: 01 March 2010 - 09:52 AM

[Nick07]

Devin, on 01 March 2010 - 09:41 AM, said:

might wanna get some kind of circut breaker instead, or keep a few spare fuses with you, it would suck to get stranded with no batery power

x2, pick up a 100 amp circuit breaker instead. That way you don't have to worry about goin through fuses if somethin decides to short out. The only bad part is that I know a couple people that used them and the breaker didn't flip when it should have and fried the amp or blew a sub. Those were obviously used in audio applications though, but if that were to happen while being used in circuit with your battery then who knows what might happen. I wouldn't worry too much though if you buy a good quality one, I used to run one and didn't have any problems but after I heard of some people having problems with them I switched back to a 100 amp fuse to be safe. You should be alright just don't buy the cheapest one

[Devin]

Nick07, on 01 March 2010 - 09:20 AM, said:

Devin, on 01 March 2010 - 09:41 AM, said:

might wanna get some kind of circut breaker instead, or keep a few spare fuses with you, it would suck to get stranded with no batery power

x2, pick up a 100 amp circuit breaker instead. That way you don't have to worry about goin through fuses if somethin decides to short out. The only bad part is that I know a couple people that used them and the breaker didn't flip when it should have and fried the amp or blew a sub. Those were obviously used in audio applications though, but if that were to happen while being used in circuit with your battery then who knows what might happen. I wouldn't worry too much though if you buy a good quality one, I used to run one and didn't have any problems but after I heard of some people having problems with them I switched back to a 100 amp fuse to be safe. You should be alright just don't buy the cheapest one

maybe 100 amp breaker in series with like 140 amp fuse, just in case...

[Dbl_D718]

A 140 amp fuse is pushing the limits of the wire, especially on long runs of it. It's quite possible you'd have a buring wire before a 140 amp fuse blew. Make sure you fuse the wire on both ends though.

[famousmonte98]

There is no inline fuse needed from the alt to the batt. in the trunk. the rewire kits don't have it. Not like its would pop for some reason but you can just eliminate it now on the main wire.

[Dbl_D718]

famousmonte98, on 01 March 2010 - 12:45 PM, said:

There is no inline fuse needed from the alt to the batt. in the trunk. the rewire kits don't have it.

Definitely not true. If that wire gets damaged and shorts out, your battery is gonna dump all sorts of current into it and start a fire if it's not fused. He needs a fuse as close to the battery has possible, just like when wiring an amp. An alternator "rewire" from ZZP or something doesn't include a fuse because it's around 2 feet of wire under the hood, not ~15 feet running through the car.

[slowmontecarlo]

zipper778, on 26 February 2010 - 08:06 PM, said:

Just remember that if you relocate your battery and plan on racing at the drag strip you will need an electrical cutoff switch on the back of your car.

http://www.nhraonlin...s/tech_faq.html

It's funny, same rules at milan....I've had my battery relocated for like 5 years and have never had an issue racing. As long as the thing is secured in a battery box and doesn't look like a total hack job (along with the rest of the car lol) you should be fine.

[famousmonte98]

Dbl_D718, on 01 March 2010 - 05:14 PM, said:

famousmonte98, on 01 March 2010 - 12:45 PM, said:

There is no inline fuse needed from the alt to the batt. in the trunk. the rewire kits don't have it.

Definitely not true. If that wire gets damaged and shorts out, your battery is gonna dump all sorts of current into it and start a fire if it's not fused. He needs a fuse as close to the battery has possible, just like when wiring an amp. An alternator "rewire" from ZZP or something doesn't include a fuse because it's around 2 feet of wire under the hood, not ~15 feet running through the car.

That's just a personal touch not needed. Why don't the kits come with a inline fuse then? Just sayn, 1000's do it without the fuse why hassle with trying to get a bigger fuse or something?

[Dbl_D718]

If the wire gets damaged in those kits, it'll still short out and potentially cause a fire or other problems if not fused. Just because ZZP doesn't give you a fuse doesn't mean it's ok in this situation. The wire is still connected directly to the positive battery post, which means if you're running it the length of the car where there's plenty of potential for it to get damaged, a fuse is a pretty good idea. It's not any different than an amp power wire.

[zipper778]

slowmontecarlo, on 01 March 2010 - 09:52 PM, said:

zipper778, on 26 February 2010 - 08:06 PM, said:

Just remember that if you relocate your battery and plan on racing at the drag strip you will need an electrical cutoff switch on the back of your car.

http://www.nhraonlin...s/tech_faq.html

It's funny, same rules at milan....I've had my battery relocated for like 5 years and have never had an issue racing. As long as the thing is secured in a battery box and doesn't look like a total hack job (along with the rest of the car lol) you should be fine.

Just saw this post today.

I was wondering if drag strips really enforced that rule. I didn't want to do it if one of them did decide to but hey, if they're okay with it then why not. Better weight distribution and more room for the fwi

[bumpin96monte]

Don't you guys think a 100 amp fuse might be a little small for spinning the starter, especially in cold weather? I realize they are slow blowing, but I would think your starter could overdraw it enough to pop it, especially if it takes a couple cranks.

I also agree with fusing the wire though- I think its the same kind of safety precaution as for an amp kit- the amp install kits aren't protecting the amp- most amps have built in internal fuses, so the main fuse up front is there to protect the cable. I could imagine someone running the power cable around a sharp edge and it wearing through over time- or someone rocketing a screw through it putting a panel back on (like the door opening trim on a 5th gen).

Although, regardless of fuse size, I'd carry at least 1 spare, and I'd probably cut a blank 'fuse' (if you're using ANL) out of sheet metal in case you needed to bypass it to get home (ie the starter drew too much and popped the fuse).

As for the track thing, they let my monte go without one when I was there years ago. The guy spent like 30 seconds under the hood- saw it was a nearly stock 3100 and just passed it. I guess it depends on the track- but they'd also let you slide 1/2 a second or so with the helmet rule and similar things too.

I don't really understand what the rule is trying to do. If you have a battery up front- its not like there is a big kill switch hanging out the hood of your car for them to easily shut the car down. What about cars that have a factory rear battery? Since that isn't a relocation, they wouldn't need a kill switch?

Quote

But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

This just sounds retarded. So if I had some cheap piece of garbage Honda, that happened to have a relocated battery for whatever reason- and I pull up in a 18 second car, with a big kill handle and PUSH OFF over it- they wouldn't laugh? For someone who just goes to the track every now and then, I think this would turn people off.

This post has been edited by bumpin96monte: 08 March 2010 - 12:49 PM