[BradinSTL]

Can someone point me to the spark plug changing thread? I did use the forum search and missed it. I'm trying to change the plugs on my '02 Monte with the 3.8 and cannot believe how hard it is to get to the back 3. Cannot even get the boots off of the front 3. I tried undoing the 'dog bones' and rocking the motor, but that doesn't buy you much room.

Sorry if this has been beat to death previously!
BradinSTL.

[Manitcor]

a combination of swivels, extensions, patience and about 10,000 swears

it can be done, and there is no specific trick to it. You might want a plug boot pulling tool as well as it will help pull the boots off without destroying them
esp in the back.

I find removing the ALT and the tensioner helps too so you can more easily get in from the side.

[Devin]

i got lucky and did mine when i did the intake gasket... but you can get a spark plug socket that has a swivel made on to it, then you gotta get really mad at it

[ChibiBlackSheep]

How long has it been since you did this?

The boots could just be simply fried to the plugs if it's been a while. You might be better off just buying a new set of wires with your plugs and just hacking the boots off and undoing the plugs

Rocking my car always gave me plenty of room...

[Devin]

ChibiBlackSheep, on 12 March 2010 - 08:33 AM, said:

How long has it been since you did this?

The boots could just be simply fried to the plugs if it's been a while. You might be better off just buying a new set of wires with your plugs and just hacking the boots off and undoing the plugs

Rocking my car always gave me plenty of room...

X2, prolly need wires anyway

a motorcycle strap hooke to the dogbone mount would hold it forward good also

[ChibiBlackSheep]

Just undoing the dogbones, rocking the car and engaging the e-brake was always enough for me.

[zipper778]

I've done this so many times now that I can get the back plugs out without any tricks. The only thing is though that I HAVE to use a spark plug socket for the back three, but other wise it's really easy. If you have to, remove the front dogbones and rock the engine forward. Then keep the engine propped with something (maybe a piece of wood put against the firewall and the engine). There's nothing to it really.

[Dbl_D718]

Yeah, if you've never changed them before, getting those boots off the plugs is going to be the hardest part of the job. Just keep working on em; twist and wiggle them around a lot and eventually you'll get them off. I think I actually used vice grips to grab onto the metal heat shield to pull them off. I'd say just buy a new set of wires before-hand because there's a good chance you'll break a wire.

[blazerman3]

Just number the plug wires before you pull `em so they can go on the correct cylinder. Always helps if you are doing wires and plugs.

[HeavyChevy3800]

I'm with zipper. At one point I was able to change all the plugs in under 15minutes with just a 3/8 drive ratchet and a sparkplug socket. I didn't have to rock the motor or remove the dogbones.

[BradinSTL]

All good input, Thanks.

I like the idea of removing the alternator to gain some room. Just replaced it last weekend so I know the routine.

No better access from below, eh?

Looks like #6 may be blocked by an oh-2 sensor or is that just and illusion?

Thanks again,
BradinSTL

[me6894]

There's no reason to remove the alternater, and I doubt it will give you extra room. You just have to reach back there, there really is more room than there appears to be. When pulling the boots, twist them first to break the seat, then they will pull off much easier. The o2 sensor isn't in the way its just really close.

[BradinSTL]

Any recommendations on plug wires? From where?

Thanks,
BradinSTL

[BradinSTL]

HeavyChevy3800, on 12 March 2010 - 04:41 PM, said:

I'm with zipper. At one point I was able to change all the plugs in under 15minutes with just a 3/8 drive ratchet and a sparkplug socket. I didn't have to rock the motor or remove the dogbones.

And this was on an '02 Monte (or similar) ?

I gotta tell ya - I'd pay to see that !!



I may remove the highlighted bracket, it only holds the harness out of the exhaust manifold and supports the top plastic cover (removed in photo), to gain some space.

BradinSTL

This post has been edited by BradinSTL: 13 March 2010 - 12:03 PM

[Dbl_D718]

It's really not that bad. Once you get the boots off all you have to do is reach back there with the socket and unscrew them. Getting the boots off the first time is what makes is hard. My first time I spent a good two hours on them, the second time took 15-20 minutes.

[BradinSTL]

Dbl_D718, on 13 March 2010 - 10:28 AM, said:

... Getting the boots off the first time is what makes is hard. My first time I spent a good two hours on them, the second time took 15-20 minutes.

Thanks Dbl. I'm thinking this MUST be the first time on this car as the boots appear to be welded on. 3/4 twist and no movement. Got new wires in hand and will try again, this time w/o fear of damaging the OEM wires.

Thanks,
BradinSTL

This post has been edited by BradinSTL: 13 March 2010 - 11:02 PM

[BradinSTL]

Done !! (finally)

I started on the front three just to make some easier progress. The plug boots were quite a b**ch to get off. The clips inside the OEM boots were very tight and didn't want to let go. What seemed to help was a small hook (like a dentist tool) to pull on the inside end of the boot. With the heat shields, there just isn't much of the boot to get a hold of. It took just under an hour to get those three off.



Then I removed the dog bones and used a motorcycle tiedown to pull the motor forward (thanks Devin!). Then I pulled the cross-bar and removed the cover bracket (green circle in previous post) and the coolant catch bottle. I started working on plug #6 which was blocked enough by the oh-2 sensor that I had to use a u-joint on the socket. Plug #4 wasn't too bad to access, but #2 was a killer.



You can't see it or get at it directly with the rear engine lift ring, heater hoses, and power steering line in the way. I finally worked it off with a small Vise Grip clamped on the boot (small smear of blood on the line there). It took me just under three hours to get the back three off and the new wires run.

As Dbl suggested the getting the boots off was the main problem. With new wires on with a dab of di-electric grease I'm sure it will be easier next time (less blood too).

Thanks for the comments. Maybe someone else will benefit from this thread if they run into the same problem.

BradinSTL

This post has been edited by BradinSTL: 13 March 2010 - 11:13 PM

[HirschiOHIO]

Are you sure you used di-electric grease?? If so, you need to totally remove it ALL (with cleaner) and replace with silicone or a NON-conductive grease. di-electric grease is what you put on electrical connections only for BETTER electrical conections and protection from oxidation (also referred to as No-Ox). Di-electric grease will allow voltage arcing /bleed off from the top of the plug out the boot and to the motor (ground) instead of all through the plug. It may not be enough to cause an immediate problem, but a weaker spark eventually will cause other more costly problems. high voltage connections get silicone or the stuff they sell at the parts store specifically for spark plug boots. -Take it from a High Voltage utility worker.

[HeavyChevy3800]

HirschiOHIO, on 16 March 2010 - 12:52 PM, said:

Are you sure you used di-electric grease?? If so, you need to totally remove it ALL (with cleaner) and replace with silicone or a NON-conductive grease. di-electric grease is what you put on electrical connections only for BETTER electrical conections and protection from oxidation (also referred to as No-Ox). Di-electric grease will allow voltage arcing /bleed off from the top of the plug out the boot and to the motor (ground) instead of all through the plug. It may not be enough to cause an immediate problem, but a weaker spark eventually will cause other more costly problems. high voltage connections get silicone or the stuff they sell at the parts store specifically for spark plug boots. -Take it from a High Voltage utility worker.

wiseGeek.com said:

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

I'm glad you don't work for my county.

[me6894]

^lol

[BradinSTL]

Wow... made me check !!