3100 To 3400 Dohc
#1
Posted 16 July 2010 - 02:51 PM
1 3400 dohc
2 tuned pcm (not needed write away)
3 down pipe
4 maybe bigger injectors also
is there anything im missing
#2
Posted 16 July 2010 - 02:57 PM
3.4 = DOHC
3400 = regular ol' 3.4

2000 Monte Carlo SS | 180,000+ miles | Turbo in the Works
1998 Camaro BPM | 5-Speed | New Daily Driver
#4
Posted 16 July 2010 - 03:26 PM
Why waste your time putting in that motor? For about the same amount of work, you could drop in a 3800.

'96 Monte L67 - Ported heads | Full 3" Exhaust | Ported TB | 180* T-stat | 104's | HAI | UDAP | SSPlog&Ported Rear | P&P Gen III | Walbro | AFC |
'93 Prelude H22A1 - Header | CAI | 2.5" SS Exhaust |
http://usatyourservice.webs.com | http://www.expertpcnc.com
#5
Posted 16 July 2010 - 04:05 PM
3400's come in Grand Ams, 2000+ Monte LS, and some minivans. The 3.4 DOHC came in 95-97 Z34's and older GP's, probably other cars too but IDK.
Why waste your time putting in that motor? For about the same amount of work, you could drop in a 3800.
3.8 is alot more work and more expensive i heard i can get a 3.4 motor for like 300 bucks and drop it in
#6
Posted 16 July 2010 - 06:38 PM
badassmonte, on 16 July 2010 - 05:05 PM, said:
nitehawkjcb, on 16 July 2010 - 03:26 PM, said:
Why waste your time putting in that motor? For about the same amount of work, you could drop in a 3800.
3.8 is alot more work and more expensive i heard i can get a 3.4 motor for like 300 bucks and drop it in
this, a 3400 is a drop in replacement for a 3100. A 3800 requires a trans swap, new pcm and other goodies.
if your interested in speed then do the math on what power range you are shooting for. if you just want something with a little pep and a good sound a lightly modded 3400 may end up cheaper than a 3800 swap.
stay away from the DOHC.
#7
Posted 16 July 2010 - 07:59 PM
they have a lot more power then the 3400 though
#8
Posted 16 July 2010 - 10:48 PM

1995 Monte Carlo Z34 - Coming soon...
#9
Posted 16 July 2010 - 10:57 PM
3400 = LA1 OHV (pushrod) v6 180hp
3.4 = LQ1 DOHC v6 210-215hp
With that being said, do not swap a 3.4 into your car. You'll be much happier with dropping in a 3400 which is virtually a direct replacement. The LQ1's have too many problems, virtually no aftermarket, and the alternator is in a horrible location.
If you want performance, then the L67 is the easiest/cheapest swap. But to keep it simple, all you need is a 3400, pull the 3100 out and install the 3400. All the wires are the same from what I remember.
#10
Posted 16 July 2010 - 11:00 PM

1995 Monte Carlo Z34 - Coming soon...
#11
Posted 17 July 2010 - 07:30 AM
zipper778, on 16 July 2010 - 10:57 PM, said:
3400 = LA1 OHV (pushrod) v6 180hp
3.4 = LQ1 DOHC v6 210-215hp
With that being said, do not swap a 3.4 into your car. You'll be much happier with dropping in a 3400 which is virtually a direct replacement. The LQ1's have too many problems, virtually no aftermarket, and the alternator is in a horrible location.
If you want performance, then the L67 is the easiest/cheapest swap. But to keep it simple, all you need is a 3400, pull the 3100 out and install the 3400. All the wires are the same from what I remember.
what is the hp potential on a 3400?
and a 3400 is just a 3100 bored .30 over ?
This post has been edited by badassmonte: 17 July 2010 - 07:32 AM
#12
Posted 17 July 2010 - 08:15 AM
badassmonte, on 17 July 2010 - 08:30 AM, said:
zipper778, on 16 July 2010 - 10:57 PM, said:
3400 = LA1 OHV (pushrod) v6 180hp
3.4 = LQ1 DOHC v6 210-215hp
With that being said, do not swap a 3.4 into your car. You'll be much happier with dropping in a 3400 which is virtually a direct replacement. The LQ1's have too many problems, virtually no aftermarket, and the alternator is in a horrible location.
If you want performance, then the L67 is the easiest/cheapest swap. But to keep it simple, all you need is a 3400, pull the 3100 out and install the 3400. All the wires are the same from what I remember.
what is the hp potential on a 3400?
and a 3400 is just a 3100 bored .30 over ?
there are other differences as well. esp when comparing an older 3100 to a newer 3400 or 3500.
NA you can hit 300 with these but its expensive, boosted people have hit mid 12's though if your looking for speed beyond basic mods then the $:hp ratio is in the 3800s favor.
#13
Posted 17 July 2010 - 09:01 AM
Manitcor, on 17 July 2010 - 08:15 AM, said:
badassmonte, on 17 July 2010 - 08:30 AM, said:
zipper778, on 16 July 2010 - 10:57 PM, said:
3400 = LA1 OHV (pushrod) v6 180hp
3.4 = LQ1 DOHC v6 210-215hp
With that being said, do not swap a 3.4 into your car. You'll be much happier with dropping in a 3400 which is virtually a direct replacement. The LQ1's have too many problems, virtually no aftermarket, and the alternator is in a horrible location.
If you want performance, then the L67 is the easiest/cheapest swap. But to keep it simple, all you need is a 3400, pull the 3100 out and install the 3400. All the wires are the same from what I remember.
what is the hp potential on a 3400?
and a 3400 is just a 3100 bored .30 over ?
there are other differences as well. esp when comparing an older 3100 to a newer 3400 or 3500.
NA you can hit 300 with these but its expensive, boosted people have hit mid 12's though if your looking for speed beyond basic mods then the $:hp ratio is in the 3800s favor.
and dont they make a supercharger for them?
#14
Posted 17 July 2010 - 01:27 PM
Brendensmonte, on 17 July 2010 - 12:48 AM, said:
Try me.

'96 Monte L67 - Ported heads | Full 3" Exhaust | Ported TB | 180* T-stat | 104's | HAI | UDAP | SSPlog&Ported Rear | P&P Gen III | Walbro | AFC |
'93 Prelude H22A1 - Header | CAI | 2.5" SS Exhaust |
http://usatyourservice.webs.com | http://www.expertpcnc.com
#15
Posted 18 July 2010 - 12:22 AM
This post has been edited by zipper778: 18 July 2010 - 12:23 AM
#16
Posted 05 August 2010 - 07:50 PM
#17
Posted 18 November 2010 - 08:40 AM
#18
Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:45 AM
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 07:40 AM, said:
Try to stay away from caps.....
Secondly, you will need the engine, trans, trans cooler lines, powersteering line, axles, wiring harness, pcm, and a few other little odds and ends.

#19
Posted 18 November 2010 - 11:00 AM
jaybaum96, on 18 November 2010 - 09:45 AM, said:
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 07:40 AM, said:
Try to stay away from caps.....
Secondly, you will need the engine, trans, trans cooler lines, powersteering line, axles, wiring harness, pcm, and a few other little odds and ends.
if you are looking to do something like this to "save some money" you are better off selling off what parts you can and finding another 97z or LS for sale for a $1000 or so. You will spend at least that much getting all your parts and disposables together. It may even be more depending on if you have a a complete 3100 with accessories or if its just the engine.
#20
Posted 18 November 2010 - 03:51 PM
Manitcor, on 18 November 2010 - 11:00 AM, said:
jaybaum96, on 18 November 2010 - 09:45 AM, said:
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 07:40 AM, said:
Try to stay away from caps.....
Secondly, you will need the engine, trans, trans cooler lines, powersteering line, axles, wiring harness, pcm, and a few other little odds and ends.
if you are looking to do something like this to "save some money" you are better off selling off what parts you can and finding another 97z or LS for sale for a $1000 or so. You will spend at least that much getting all your parts and disposables together. It may even be more depending on if you have a a complete 3100 with accessories or if its just the engine.
I AM TRYING TO SAVE MONEY. WHAT WOULD BE THE CHEAPEST WAY TO GO JUST TO GET IT RUNNING AGAIN? AND WHAT ARE CAPS????
#21
Posted 18 November 2010 - 04:02 PM
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 03:51 PM, said:
I AM TRYING TO SAVE MONEY. WHAT WOULD BE THE CHEAPEST WAY TO GO JUST TO GET IT RUNNING AGAIN? AND WHAT ARE CAPS????
CAPS ARE WHEN YOU TYPE WITH ALL CAPITAL LETTERS IT IS VERY HARD ON THE EYES TO READ AND IS CONSIDERED YELLING IN INTERNET PARLANCE, IN GENERAL IT IS RUDE.
So please use proper case, people will not take you seriously otherwise, and many won't even respond.
It really depends on what you mean by "my motor blew" as to what the fix would be/cost.
#22
Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:12 PM
Manitcor, on 18 November 2010 - 04:02 PM, said:
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 03:51 PM, said:
CAPS ARE WHEN YOU TYPE WITH ALL CAPITAL LETTERS IT IS VERY HARD ON THE EYES TO READ AND IS CONSIDERED YELLING IN INTERNET PARLANCE, IN GENERAL IT IS RUDE.
So please use proper case, people will not take you seriously otherwise, and many won't even respond.
It really depends on what you mean by "my motor blew" as to what the fix would be/cost.
Ok, i apologize. My Motor seized up because of no oil.
#23
Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:18 PM
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 06:12 PM, said:
Ok, i apologize. My Motor seized up because of no oil.
Ok, now what is your skill level/experience working on cars?
#25
Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:25 PM
#26
Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:43 PM
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 07:25 PM, said:
Is there anyway to un-seize my 3.4?
your mechanic should be able to help you there, most likely you spun your bearings, depending on how much damage has been done it may actually be cheaper to to replace some of the internals and build the block back up.
since you are having to pull the engine anyway you should start there before deciding what to do.
Pull the engine out, get it on a stand and tear it down so you can get a look at the internals from both the bottom and the top of the engine. You can then make a good assessment of the damage and determine if you can get away with replacing some internal components or replacing the engine completely.
#27
Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:46 PM
Manitcor, on 18 November 2010 - 07:43 PM, said:
97MoneyCarlo, on 18 November 2010 - 07:25 PM, said:
your mechanic should be able to help you there, most likely you spun your bearings, depending on how much damage has been done it may actually be cheaper to to replace some of the internals and build the block back up.
since you are having to pull the engine anyway you should start there before deciding what to do.
Pull the engine out, get it on a stand and tear it down so you can get a look at the internals from both the bottom and the top of the engine. You can then make a good assessment of the damage and determine if you can get away with replacing some internal components or replacing the engine completely.
Ok. Thank you. I will do that. thanks for your advice.
#28
Posted 20 November 2010 - 05:27 PM
This post has been edited by 97MoneyCarlo: 21 November 2010 - 06:27 PM

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