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Getting Serious About The Top Swap Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Z34Coop 

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:26 PM

Now that thanks to 3800power I have a topswap kit lined up I can start a thread for questions and such that I know I'm going to have along the way being a 17 year who does not know much about cars.
First, Intercooling. I like the idea and want to since I would like to eventually be able to start dropping pulleys, but not sure which is best, stock/aftermarket. Install when doing the topswap? Or wait? I've been to zzperformance and some of theirs look good but are kinda pricey.. (would post links but I'm at school and they have the site blocked here?)
Next, Exhaust. From what I've read I might as well do headers while I'm tearing the block apart and since I want to convert it to a full 3" the topswap would be a good time to do so yes? Also, custom-fab a full kit? Or buy a cat-back? Which would be better price, effeciency and reliability wise?
Lastly (for now) I know that earlier you guys said to get my own tuner and just tune the car myself, but since I don't have a big cash flow, nor have I been able to find any DHP tuners for sale, how bad would it be to get a pretuned PCM (giving a shop my setup) or just take it to a local shop and have them tune it until I can get a tuner and get the guts to start tuning it and pray I don't F something up. Speaking of that, with tuners, is there a way you can transfer the settings via internet (like some .whatever file) so that I could see the basics of where to start and what does what?
Sorry I kinda rambled but these are all questions going through the novice car person's head before attempting this.
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#2 User is offline   jaybaum96 

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 02:26 PM

Intercooling- It isnt a need, some guys can get away with a pulley drop with other mods other than intercooling. But anything smaller than a 3.4 without an ic is really cutting it close. You can usually find an ic kit for cheap on clubgp, or buy mine Posted Image.

Exhaust- To bang out your firewall it will be a million times easier if you have the entire motor and trans pulled. I thought about doing headers after i swapped my l67 but i thank everyone on here now for telling me to do them before. Headers involve alot of cutting and banging, something you'll learn when your doing it Posted Image. If you dont plan on doing any huge mods, you could get away with a ported rear panifold and front plog, and probably a 3 inch downpipe. As far as cat-back exhaust, there is really nothing for our cars. The catback exhaust systems for GTP's and Regal's do fit, but line up with our under car heat shields completely different. Realistically you could keep your stock catback, get a new flange welded on for the downpipe and just throw on some aftermarket mufflers of some kind.

PCM- A pretuned one for a topswap would be fine if you just wanna start it up and get to a tuner, but i highly advise having a someone there to tune your car right away. As far as transfering files on the internet, i know you can do it, (zzp does it) but i just havent tuned a car myself so i cant clarify how easy it is.

Good luck man.

This post has been edited by jaybaum96: 23 August 2010 - 02:27 PM

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#3 User is offline   3800power 

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 08:10 PM

If you are serious about boost, do headers the first time around. SSAC's worked great for me.

If you are pulling your motor for the swap, put an XP cam in there and make 300whp. I actually would have a tune for you, all you would need is a billet TB to go along with those other mods, and that is basically what I had. That and 42# green tops.

If you choose to go the other route, I would just put 1.9's in, and a full size IC...and trap 104 in the 1/4. Bahahahahahaha
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#4 User is offline   Z34Coop 

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 08:43 PM

I'm not pullin the motor, I'll guarantee that lol. Throttlebody has me looking tho. And what are green tops?
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#5 User is offline   cak387 

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:14 PM

View PostZ34Coop, on 23 August 2010 - 09:43 PM, said:

And what are green tops?


They are 42.5# fuel injectors.
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#6 User is offline   jaybaum96 

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 10:53 AM

View PostZ34Coop, on 23 August 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:

I'm not pullin the motor, I'll guarantee that lol. Throttlebody has me looking tho. And what are green tops?


Then the headers are in no way going to fit...
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#7 User is offline   3800power 

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 05:12 PM

View Postjaybaum96, on 24 August 2010 - 11:53 AM, said:

View PostZ34Coop, on 23 August 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:

I'm not pullin the motor, I'll guarantee that lol. Throttlebody has me looking tho. And what are green tops?


Then the headers are in no way going to fit...


Lol. Pulling the motor gains you absolutely nothing when it comes to installing headers. Even if the motor is out of the car, the transmission/sub frame are still in the way, and the upper part of the firewall, is not really an issue to get at with a hammer, so your statement is not valid. I had headers on my car, didn't pull the motor, heavychevy had headers on his car, didn't pull the motor, jacko had headers on his car, didn't pull the motor... Do I need to keep going?

Take a mini sledge to the top part of the firewall, and either a saws-all or a plasma cutter to the bottom part of the firewall, and you are golden. Getting in there to weld is kind of a pain, but once again, unless the transmission is out, AND the sub frame is out, you won't gain anything from pulling the motor. Trust me, I did it twice.
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#8 User is offline   Z34Coop 

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 10:40 PM

Lol I'm hoping that between me, my automotive teacher, and an endless supply of tools we can do all this and headers/exhaust in one weekend. So thanks to 3800 I guess I'll be getting headers after the kit. maybe even an i/c too. How hard are they to do?
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- 20% tint all around - license plate cover - tinted tails, reverse panel, & sidemarkers -
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