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L67 Swap where does it go??? Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:13 PM

ok, i'm wondering if i have to do any mods to the c100.i believe i have a 98 harness and do have a 98 engine/tranny...do i need to mod it? since i'm not sure do i still need to mod if it is a 99???

also today i started to put the harness on the engine and i have these two plugs, i believe the red one is evap but it's sitting on front of the engine...and the white one? i have no idea!!! it is attached to the big plug in lower of pic...

and what about the BBV??? (check pic) which side do i need to block? or what do i need to do to make a zzp kit work???

[attachment=3291:IMG00165-20100908-1800.jpg][attachment=3292:DSC00368.JPG]
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#2 User is offline   HeavyChevy3800 

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:30 PM

The red plug is for the Evap solenoid. I removed my evap solenoid and the cut the nylon line off of the hardline by the frame rail were the fuel lines come in from under the car.

The white plug looks like the coolant temp. sensor plug or the plug for the coolant temp. extension.

The other is your Boost Bypass Solenoid. You don't need to wire it up and can remove the solenoid. You can run it off vacuum. You can take that bottom line off and let the BBV "vent" to atmosphere and run the top of the BBV to that top vacuum tree. The vacuum tree is on top of the supercharger. It has a nipple for the BBV, the HVAC line and a large one for the brake booster.

This post has been edited by HeavyChevy3800: 08 September 2010 - 11:32 PM

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1998 Dark Carmine Red Metallic Z-34 SOLD
L67(9.4:1)|XP Cam|3.3''|N*|P&P M90+LIM|DPP's|42#GreenTops
VS cam/3.3''- 13.18@104.6 2.06 60'
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#3 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:06 AM

But can the evap work? I'll make it work and use the same line off the 3100 (this is the one that in the 3100 goes near the brake booster, right?)

Also the coolant sensor (the one near the thermostat) is already plugged in! Which is reaaally confusing at the moment!

so I don' t really need to use it...I don't have to actually remove anything do I? So I leave the left vacuum inlet open, with no vacuum line to it and the right upper vacuum inlet going to the top...(Leave the one that is in the pic where it is???)

HVAC? This is the vacuum that goes into the fender on the drivers side???

Also which of the lines is the fuel pressure line in the charger???
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#4 User is offline   nitehawkjcb 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:42 AM

View Poststonecold0469, on 09 September 2010 - 02:06 AM, said:

But can the evap work? I'll make it work and use the same line off the 3100 (this is the one that in the 3100 goes near the brake booster, right?)

Also the coolant sensor (the one near the thermostat) is already plugged in! Which is reaaally confusing at the moment!

so I don' t really need to use it...I don't have to actually remove anything do I? So I leave the left vacuum inlet open, with no vacuum line to it and the right upper vacuum inlet going to the top...(Leave the one that is in the pic where it is???)

HVAC? This is the vacuum that goes into the fender on the drivers side???

Also which of the lines is the fuel pressure line in the charger???


Yes, you can make the EVAP work. All you need is the correct size hose and you're good to go.

I can't remember how the sensor on the radiator looked... Maybe it goes there?

The BBV is pointless to wire up to the PCM IMHO. You could remove the solonoid bracket perhaps, I've never attempted it though.

HVAC is the vacuum line that goes to the fender. It goes to the vacuum ball, which controls how air blows in your cabin through the vents. If there's a leak there, your defrost may not work or floor heat may not work.

There is no fuel pressure line inside the supercharger. The injectors go directly into the heads.
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'96 Monte L67 - Ported heads | Full 3" Exhaust | Ported TB | 180* T-stat | 104's | HAI | UDAP | SSPlog&Ported Rear | P&P Gen III | Walbro | AFC |
'93 Prelude H22A1 - Header | CAI | 2.5" SS Exhaust |
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#5 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:58 AM

Ok, I'll make the EVAP work.

I'll just have to keep looking into it, maybe I forgot something! Besides fans, pcm, ect that is the only plug I'm missing...

Ok, about the BBV and the solenoid, how was it for vacuum??? Which one do I leave open? And inlet vacuum for the solenoid also stays open???

Ok, I'll make the HVAC work

What I mean the fuel pressure hoses that go into the fuel rail from the top of the charger which is which pressure and return???
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#6 User is offline   HeavyChevy3800 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 09:15 AM

View Postnitehawkjcb, on 09 September 2010 - 02:42 AM, said:


I can't remember how the sensor on the radiator looked... Maybe it goes there?

The low coolant sensor on the radiator is a flat wide sensor. The only sensors I can think of that are round and three pronged are the coolant temperature sensor, the TPS sensor or the IAT sensor.


View Poststonecold0469, on 09 September 2010 - 02:58 AM, said:

Ok, I'll make the EVAP work.

I'll just have to keep looking into it, maybe I forgot something! Besides fans, pcm, ect that is the only plug I'm missing...

Ok, about the BBV and the solenoid, how was it for vacuum??? Which one do I leave open? And inlet vacuum for the solenoid also stays open???

Ok, I'll make the HVAC work

What I mean the fuel pressure hoses that go into the fuel rail from the top of the charger which is which pressure and return???
The BBV needs to leave the nipple on the bottom open. The nipple on the top goes to the vacuum tree on the top of the supercharger. Just remove the solenoid, you don't need it and it will clean up the engine bay some. It's just a 10mm or 12mm nut.

The HVAC comes from inside the cabing to the vacuum ball in the vender then back up around the TB. Plug that line into the vacuum tree on top of the supercharger.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator get's it's vacuum source from the nipple on the side of the LIM just under the Snout. The MAP sensor also get's vacuum from there and that is were people "T" in a boost gauge.


I uploading some hi res pictures of my engine bay before I put the headers in. These are the best engine bay shots I have.

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I have a TPS adapter since I was running a NorthStar throttlebody and my IAT harness is extended. It looks like you might have the TPS, the IAT sensor and or the coolant temperature sensor mixed up. All the plugs that on the harness are near what they need to plug in. You shouldn't need to stretch anything. Compare my harness to yours and see where the wiring originates from and where it plugs in.
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1998 Dark Carmine Red Metallic Z-34 SOLD
L67(9.4:1)|XP Cam|3.3''|N*|P&P M90+LIM|DPP's|42#GreenTops
VS cam/3.3''- 13.18@104.6 2.06 60'
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#7 User is offline   nitehawkjcb 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:19 PM

I just checked. The only 3 prong white connector that I saw like that is the coolant temp sensor.
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'96 Monte L67 - Ported heads | Full 3" Exhaust | Ported TB | 180* T-stat | 104's | HAI | UDAP | SSPlog&Ported Rear | P&P Gen III | Walbro | AFC |
'93 Prelude H22A1 - Header | CAI | 2.5" SS Exhaust |
http://usatyourservice.webs.com | http://www.expertpcnc.com

#8 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 08:32 PM

Ok, here's what I got so far:

1-took out the solenoid (10MM) this eliminates three vacuum lines.

2-took out the lower vacuum line off the Boost Bypass Valve and left the upper one connected to the tree.

3-Discovered fuel lines!!! (This is soo lame for me to say)

4-since I couldn't buy headers I took the manifolds for a little porting and put some thermowrap thingy in them (hope it works)

5-about the wiring...you guys were right, it goes to the coolant sensor! I installed the plug that goes into the A/C...

6-no one has told me if the c100 conector changes from 98 to 99 (if I need to make mods) since I'm not really sure if my harness it's a 98 or a 99. My car and the L67 are 1998.

7-the engine and tranny are out!!! Tomorow before work I will degrease everything!!!
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#9 User is offline   nitehawkjcb 

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 08:48 PM

I'm not sure about the C100, but I don't believe you need to make any modifications.
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'96 Monte L67 - Ported heads | Full 3" Exhaust | Ported TB | 180* T-stat | 104's | HAI | UDAP | SSPlog&Ported Rear | P&P Gen III | Walbro | AFC |
'93 Prelude H22A1 - Header | CAI | 2.5" SS Exhaust |
http://usatyourservice.webs.com | http://www.expertpcnc.com

#10 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 01:21 AM

Like this???
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#11 User is offline   HeavyChevy3800 

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 08:31 AM

Perfect. You'll want to put the nut back on though. I think the bracket can move around on the rod if the nut is not there.
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1998 Dark Carmine Red Metallic Z-34 SOLD
L67(9.4:1)|XP Cam|3.3''|N*|P&P M90+LIM|DPP's|42#GreenTops
VS cam/3.3''- 13.18@104.6 2.06 60'
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#12 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 12:03 AM

Heavy the bracket doesn't move without it, also I'm having some problems at the TB the TB cable won't open up the throttle 100% I believe like half of it, apparently the cable is a bit longer any solutions there??? Also found another plug! Weird it only has 1 plug for the radiator fans, the second plug is a red one that seems to be for that but doesn't plug into any of the 3100's fans nor the GTP's fan... What do I do? Cut it and put a new plug that works on the fans?
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#13 User is offline   killaz1337 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 01:09 AM

The c100 connector is the same for both 98/99.

Can we get a picture of the plug? If I remember correctly, there was a small pigtail that connected to the fans on the car, I forget how it was. I remember I didn't have the pigtail and ended up just cutting and splicing it.

Also I had the same problem with the throttle cable being too long. Go underneath your dash where the cable connects to the pedal. You will see that you can add plastic washers as spacers so the cable is pulled more. It's very easy, you will see this when you take a peek under there.

Chris,

This post has been edited by killaz1337: 15 September 2010 - 01:10 AM

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#14 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 03:24 PM

Ok, I just got home from work, I will try this! The engine is already in and all vacuum lines, PS line and fuel line are conected, the harness it's all plugged in besides fan and the other plug I told you about, I will try get you a pic of it and try to get the throttle working and see if I can start it today!
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#15 User is offline   stonecold0469 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 08:41 PM

It's alive! It started up right away!!! But now I kinda have 2 problems, the fuel level marks full! And it's almost empty! And everything turned off the reverse lights stay on! Even without the key! What's wrong???
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